Showing posts with label Heritage. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Heritage. Show all posts

Monday, 15 August 2011

The Great Wood Wall

Line of The Wall from Flagstaff

The Great Wood Wall around Middlepoint, crossing Bilberry Field Gut and rising towards Bottom Woods is all that remains of the stone wall built by the East India Company in an attempt to protect its own future wood supplies in The Great Wood from destruction from “browsing by goats and rooting by swine”.  Built in the period 1723 – 1727, mainly by Governor John Smith only about 150 acres were completely enclosed, the scheme was ultimately unsuccessful, none of the original trees remain and only around 800 metres of the original wall.


The best exposition of the "devastation of the native vegetation and the ecological despoilaton" of St. Helena, The Wall and The Vanishing Great Wood can be found in Ashmole and Ashmole, St Helena and Ascension Island: a natural history.  Published by Nelson in 2000.

Looking North towards Flagstaff

Janisch’s Extracts from the St Helena Records describes, year after year, the frustration and impotence of successive Governors to prevent the over-exploitation and ultimately the destruction of the natural assets of St. Helena.   http://openlibrary.org/books/OL23471107M/Extracts_from_the_St._Helena_Records


Rising from Bilberry Field Gut towards Bottom Woods

Both Beatson’s 1816 “Tracts relative to the Island of St. Helena and JC Melliss’ 1875 “Physical, Historical and Topographical Description of the Island” describe in detail, to quote Ashmole “the inexorable progress of the tragedy of the commons, the remorseless destruction of a potentially sustainable resource by a number of independent exploiters following their own self-interest even though the result in the long run is a disaster for everyone.

Looking South-East across Bilberry Field Gut

Alfred Russel Wallace in “Island Life” published in1880 summarised the effects on St. Helena by European occupation. When first discovered, in the year 1501, St. Helena was densely covered with luxuriant forest vegetation, the trees overhanging the seaward precipices and covering every part of the surface with an evergreen mantle.  This indigenous vegetation has been almost wholly destroyed; and although an immense number of foreign plants have been introduced, and have more or less completely established themselves, yet the general aspect of the island is now so barren and forbidding that some persons find it difficult to believe that it was once all green and fertile.  The cause of the change is, however, very easily explained.  The rich soil formed by decomposed volcanic rock and vegetable deposits could only be retained on the steep slopes so long as it was protected by the vegetation to which it in great part owed its origin.  When this was destroyed, the heavy tropical rains soon washed away the soil, and left a vast expanse of bare rock or sterile clay.  This irreparable destruction was caused in the first place by goats, which were introduced by the Portuguese in 1513, and increased so rapidly that in 1588, they existed in thousands.  These animals are the greatest of all foes to trees, because they eat off the young seedlings, and thus prevent the natural restoration of the forest.  They were, however, aided by the reckless waste of man.  The East India Company took possession of the island in 1651, and about the year 1700 it began to be seen that the forests were fast diminishing, and required some protection.  Two of the native trees, redwood and ebony, were good for tanning, and to save trouble the bark was wastefully stripped from the trunks only, the remainder being left to rot; while in 1709 a large quantity of the rapidly disappearing ebony was used to burn lime for building fortifications.  By the records quoted in Mr. Melliss' interesting volume on St. Helena it is evident that the evil consequences of allowing the trees to be destroyed were clearly foreseen, as the following passages show: "We find the place called the Great Wood in a flourishing condition, full of young trees, where the hoggs (of which there is a great abundance) do not come to root them up.  But the Great Wood is miserably lessened and destroyed within our memories, and is not near the circuit and length it was.  But we believe it does not contain now less than fifteen hundred acres of fine woodland and good ground, but no springs of water but what is salt or brackish, which we take to be the reason that that part was not inhabited when the people first chose out their settlements and made plantations; but if wells could be sunk, which the governor says he will attempt when we have more hands, we should then think it the most pleasant and healthiest part of the island. But as to healthiness, we don't think it will hold so if the wood that keeps the land warm were destroyed, for then the rains, which are violent here, would carry away the upper soil, and it being a clay marl underneath would produce but little; as it is, we think in case it were enclosed it might be greatly improved" ... "When once this wood is gone the island will soon be ruined" ... "We viewed the wood's end which joins the Honourable Company's plantation called the Hutts, but the wood is so destroyed that the beginning of the Great Wood is now a whole mile beyond that place, and all the soil between being washed away, that distance is now entirely barren."  In 1709 the governor reported to the Court of Directors of the East India Company that the timber was rapidly disappearing, and that the goats should be destroyed for the preservation of the ebony wood, and because the island was suffering from droughts.  The reply was, "The goats are not to be destroyed, being more valuable than ebony." Thus, through the gross ignorance of those in power, the last opportunity of preserving the peculiar vegetation of St. Helena, and preventing the island from becoming the comparatively rocky desert it now is, was allowed to pass away. Even in a mere pecuniary point of view the error was a fatal one, for in the next century (in 1810) another governor reports the total destruction of the great forests by the goats, and that in consequence the cost of importing fuel for government use was £2,729. 7s. 8d. for a single year.


Looking South


Drainage Detail
Looking North into Bilberry Field Gut


Looking South towards Bottom Woods


Rising towards Bottom Woods


Photographs taken in May 2010.




Monday, 27 June 2011

Flax

St. Helena, Peakdale, Footpaths through the Flax, May 2010

Among the many hundreds of plants first seen by Europeans on James Cook’s 1768 to 1771 Endeavour Voyage was one described, but not named, by Joseph Banks in his March 1770 “Account of New Zealand”:
“But of all the plants we have seen among these people that which is the most excellent in its kind, and which really excels most if not all that are put to the same uses in other Countries, is the plant which serves them instead of Hemp and flax.  Of this there are two sorts: the leaves of both much resemble those of flags: the flowers are smaller and grow many more together, in one sort they are Yellowish in the other of a deep red.  Of the leaves of these plants with very little preparation all their common wearing apparel are made and all strings, lines, and cordage for every purpose, and that of a strength so much superior to hemp as scarce to bear a comparison with it.”
Not long after returning to England Banks had his portrait painted by Benjamin West which shows him standing by a pillar wearing a Maori flax cloak.  At his feet are an adze and a book containing plant specimens.

1773 mezzotint by JR Smith from the original 1771 Portrait by Benjamin West
British Museum.  Registration Number 1841.0809.1507


In October 1774 during Cook’s 1772 to 1775 Resolution voyage a landing was made on Norfolk Island.  William Wales, the ship’s astronomer, noted that: “Near the shore the ground is covered so thick with the New Zealand Flax Plant that it is scarce possible to get through it.
The expedition’s botanists, father and son team Johann and Georg Forster collected specimens of the flax plant on Norfolk Island and in 1775 formally named it Phormium tenax, in allusion to baskets which the Maoris made from the leaves–phormium from the Greek phormos, a basket, and the Latin tenax, strong.  It should be noted that botanically New Zealand Flax is separated by an enormous distance from European Flax, Linum usatissimum, the only similarity being in supplying a fibre suitable for textile manufacture.  Its presence was, however, directly responsible for the island’s inclusion as an auxiliary settlement in the British Government’s plan for the colonisation of New South Wales.

Cook had been impressed by the potential of Norfolk Island to provide timber and fibre for the Royal Navy.  The timber of the “pines” was “exactly of the same nature as the Quebeck pines” and the trees were huge and straight.  They seemed ideal for masts and spars.  Cook already knew how highly the Maoris in New Zealand valued the flax as a fibre plant and thought it would be invaluable for making ropes and sails.  Accordingly, of all the islands discovered on the voyage, tiny Norfolk stood out for its potential value to Britain, largely because of its flax.  Because of Cook’s enthusiasm for the potential value of the flax, the British Government’s 1787 instructions to Arthur Phillip, commodore of the "First Fleet" and first Governor of New South Wales, described the flax “not only as a means of acquiring Clothing for the Convicts and other persons who may become settlers, but from its superior excellence for a variety of maritime purposes and as it may ultimately may become an Article of Export.”  Phillip was instructed: “you are, as soon as circumstances will admit of it, to send a small Establishment [to Norfolk Island] to secure the same to us, and prevent its being occupied by the subjects of any other European Power.”  On March 6th 1788 a party of 15 convicts and seven free men arrived to take control of Norfolk Island and prepare for its commercial development, though in the event it became more of a penal settlement than a source of fibre.
Flax, Tree Ferns and a solitary Norflolk Island Pine.
Diana's Peak National Park, May 2010

In June 1776, immediately prior to his third, and final, voyage, Cook wrote to his friend Commodore Wilson at Great Ayton.  “I am sorry I cannot furnish you with some New Zealand flax seed, having not one grain of it left.  Indeed, I brought hardly one grain of it home with me, but left the most of what I had at the Cape, to try to cultivate it there; for of all that was brought home in my former voyage, I have not heard of a single grain vegetating.  It is much to be feared, that this fine plant will never be raised in England.”
 In New Zealand Europeans were quick to appreciate the commercial possibilities of phormium fibre and between the 1820’s and the 1860’s a considerable trade in hand-dressed fibre was carried on between Maori and European.  In the 1860’s the invention of the flax stripper led to the development of the flax milling industry and by 1870 there were 161 flax mills nationwide, with 1,766 workers.

In the 19th and early 20th centuries British imperial administrators saw flax as a possible cash crop for various outposts of the empire and they tried to establish flax industries on islands such as Tristan da Cunha and the Isle of Man.  On Tristan da Cunha, where other materials were in short supply, the flax was used for roofing – it bleached in the weather to give the stone cottages a fine blonde thatch.

Ashmole and Ashmole offer the following in regard to flax on St. Helena:
It was introduced in the first half of the 19th century, probably by an American whaler or by a ship returning from delivering convict to Australia.  It was already growing wild in December 1852 when Fred Moss wrote to the St. Helena Advocate suggesting that it could be developed into an industry.  They also give 1860 as the date for the introduction of the Norfolk Island Pine

Peakdale, Phormium Tenax, May 2010

On St. Helena Benjamin Grant wrote in 1883:
New Zealand Flax grows luxuriantly in almost all parts of the Island.  Ten years ago a Company called the Foreign Fibre Company, was formed for the purpose of preparing the fibre of this useful plant.  Machines were sent from England, a Factory established on the Jamestown Lines for that purpose and the Company purchased in the Island a fine large estate of 156 acres called “Woody Ridge,” under 60 acres of Flax and 15 acres of Aloe, for £1,200 sterling.  But after five years incessant work the Company ceased its operations, thus many men and boys were thrown out of employment. Mr. W. Erridge (of the Firm of W. Erridge, & Co. of this Island) then hired the Factory and commenced operations again, but after twelve months he too closed the Works, alleging as a reason for so doing that preparing the fibre did not pay.  So at the present day the Foreign Fibre Company’s Works are closed, which is a great pity, as there are thousands of tons of Flax encumbering several plantations.

Grant’s book “A few notes on St. Helena” is “Respectfully inscribed” to Governor Janisch who Trevor Hearl described as someone “who worked hard to counter the colony's economic decline, and encouraged the development of the first flax industry in 1874.”

Jackson gives some more detail:
Early in1874 The Colonial & Foreign Fibre Company was formed to cultivate flax on the island and a flax works with a steam flax machine was erected in Jamestown close to the sea.  In July 1876 the first shipment of flax from The Company left the island.  The consignment was 100 bales, each weighing 4 cwt.  In February 1881 the company closed being unprofitable.  “The flax was brought in its raw state by donkeys to the flax works and had the works been built near where the flax grew, the experiment might have succeeded, for the flax is undoubtedly of good strength, but the difficulty was the water power required.”


In December 1907 a flax processing mill was set up by the Government at Longwood under the supervision of a New Zealand expert, Mr. Fulton, and in a few years the product became the only staple industry on the island.

The Marlborough Express published the following article on his visit in early 1908.
New Zealand Flax in St. Helena.  Interview with Mr. Fulton.130 Fleet Street, London, Feb. 14.
"As a matter of fact." said Mr C. J. Fulton, chief fibre expert of the New Zealand Department of Agriculture, Wellington, when he called upon me the day before yesterday, (writes a London correspondent), "I have been lent by the Government of New Zealand to the Imperial Government in order that I may do what can be done to establish on a practical and profitable footing in the island of St. Helena, a flax industry.  That is to say, I had first to satisfy myself that the soil and other conditions were suitable to the growth of phormium tenax, and if so to show the islanders how to work the fibre."
"But it was stated lately that the experiment had been made, and had failed?"
"Ah, but that failure was inevitable," answered Mr Fulton, "because the promoters used quite the wrong sort of machinery.  Certainly they did fail, and lost some £30,000 over the attempt.  But nowadays anyone would know that an attempt on that basis was bound and doomed to fail. What I am now doing is on very different lines."
"You have been visiting St. Helena, have you not?"
"Oh, yes," replied Mr Fulton.  “I left New Zealand in March last, and, of course, had to travel by a very roundabout route, as St. Helena is quite off the beaten track, or at any rate away from any regular steamship route.  But I got there at last, and spent five months in the island.  I had brought with me the flax-dressing machinery which is peculiar to New Zealand, and having made a full inspection of the place and its capabilities I came on to England to obtain the rest of the requisite appliances, and then returned to St. Helena, where I erected a mill and superintended its working for some time."
"But was the raw material available?  Does the phormium grow already in St. Helena?"
“Certainly," replied Mr Fulton. The so-called New Zealand flax has grown there for more than half a century—perhaps 54 or 55 years.  It was introduced and cultivated for hedges and for shelter in the more exposed portions of the island.  At the present time there is- only a comparatively small lot there, but the soil is very suitable for its propagation, and it will now be cultivated in large fields.  Even now, however, the big flax hedges greatly need thinning, and so a considerable quantity will be available-quite enough to go a small way while the method of working is being practiced.  Then the hedges will be thinned out not only by cutting but also by transplantation of the roots.  There will be fields of the flax instead of merely hedges.  At present the new industry gives employment to thirty men, viz, sixteen at the mill, and the others at conveying the material to the mill with bullocks and donkeys.  The formal opening of the new mill took place on the 5th December.  It was regarded as quite an historic event, and the whole population turned out to witness and celebrate it.  They might well deem the occasion an important one, for the flax industry is really the only chance for them—that is, to grow the flax and mill it.”
“So what did you think of the island itself?”
"It is exceedingly picturesque in the interior, at any rate.  There are plenty of trees and the soil is fertile.  Thus in the best parts two crops of potatoes can be grown in each year.  But they are quite unsaleable owing to the absence of a market and only those needed for domestic consumption can be used.  It is the same with the cattle; there are some fair herds, but there, is no market, and so it does not pay to breed them as their produce is unsaleable."
"How did you find the people themselves?"
"Most hospitable and kind and well conducted.  They gave me an awfully good time.  There is only one actually rich man in the whole island, a merchant named Thorpe.  Everyone else is in a small way.  By the bye, there is a cable staff of 35 in St. Helena.  The means of communication are very defective.  Only two steamers call there now and then.  There is no good harbour, only a roadstead."
"When do you return to New Zealand?"
"I was due there next month," said Mr Fulton. "But my Government I cabled to me to stay longer and visit the United States of America.  I am also going to all the principal centres of the textile industry in the United Kingdom, including Belfast, Dundee, Edinburgh, Liverpool, etc."

Flax machinery by Booth MacDonald, Christchurch, Fairyland Flax Mill, May 2010

In July 1913 Solomon’s opened a flax mill at Bamboo Hedge and by the end of 1917 one hundred and seventy five men and forty-two women were employed in the flax industry.  The flax industry had experienced a boom during the 1914 - 1918 Great War, everyone who was able began to plant and grow flax and grants of small plots of crown land were made for the further planting of this commodity, but after 1921 it had a setback from competition with low-priced sisal fibre from Africa and Java.  By 1923 there were six mills working, that of the Government, two Solomon’s mills at Sandy Bay and Broad Bottom Gut, two of Deason’s at Hutts Gate and Woody Ridge and a new one erected below Francis Plain by Thorpes.  In 1925 Solomon & Company had enough faith in the industry to set up a stripper mill on a site only about 200 yards along the Levelwood road from the old residence of Rock Rose which had become a ruin.  Unfortunately this new mill was often hampered by a shortage of water and did not operate in the early 1930's but was back in production by 1935.  In July 1932 all nine of the island’s flax mills were closed due to a fall in the price of hemp causing serious unemployment and privation, but following a Government subsidy of £3.15s a ton on manufactured fibre, re-opened in November of the same year.
Flax Mill, Bamboo Hedge, Date unknown

Gosse records that in 1938 3,253 acres of flax were under cultivation.  Three families owned the land and almost all the industry’s profits went to them.  The flax industry eventually employed 300 to 400 people who worked 50 hours per week for low wages.  Work in the fields and mill was hard, repetitive, noisy and dirty and workers were often injured in the machines used to process the fibre.   Gosse describes the Ridge, the highest part of the island as “still clothed by the primeval forest of the island, at least by what little of it has been spared by the greedy goats and more recently by the even greedier growers of New Zealand flax.  On both the steep sides of the Ridge the ruthless and rapacious flax growers have hacked down and grubbed up wild olive, tree ferns, cabbage trees, lobelia and everything else which God planted there, in order to grow their flax which would grow just as well in many other parts of the island.”

Flax Fibre drying at Fairyland, Gosse 1938

 Fairyland Flax Mill with Bamboo Hedge in the distance, May 2010


Twenty years later, concern was being expressed in the House of Commons.  Having returned from a visit to St. Helena in the summer of 1958 Cledwyn Hughes spoke in a debate held on the 8th December and described the Island’s economic position with particular reference to the flax industry.

St Helena, he stated, is not a self-supporting community, and so far as can be seen it will not be self-supporting in the foreseeable future.  Flax growing and agriculture are two main industries of the island and both are at present in a serious condition.  The hemp produced there is not of the best quality, and both its price and the demand for it have fallen progressively since 1951.  The price of hemp was at its peak in May, 1951, when it sold at £180 a ton.  In June of this year the price had fallen to as low as £55 a ton.  Four out of the five flax mills on the island are closed, which means that about 230 men and women have been thrown out of work.  There are no alternative sources of employment on the island, and these people cannot, therefore, be absorbed in any other sort of work.  In addition to that, the work is arduous and ill-paid. The basic wage is £1 13s. 0d. a week. I should like it borne in mind by the House that the cost of living on the island is relatively high.   This is what the Social Welfare Officer for St. Helena has to say in his report for 1957.  "I have found a strong feeling of resentment tempered only by the fear of unemployment among flax workers who regard their basic wage of £1 13s. 6d. a week as totally inadequate."  The Minister will probably know that the future of the flax industry in St. Helena is obscure.  One of the obvious tragedies of the island at present is that its staple industry should be in this condition.  I must mention that the Government of St. Helena have on their Statute Book a minimum wage ordinance.  They have had it on the Statute Book for many years, but I was amazed to find that it had never been implemented.  One must bear in mind that fortunes have been made out of the island's flax industry in the past, but wages have been kept as low as possible.


I found that the workers in the industry—I spoke to many of them when I was there—have been afraid to complain about their conditions of work and wages because of the fear of victimisation and unemployment.  The basic wage paid by the Government of St. Helena to their own workers is only £2 5s. a week.  Such a wage does not enable people to attain anything approaching a decent standard of living in this British Colony.  As I have said, the cost of living in the island is high and prices are comparable with United Kingdom prices.  I would ask the House to mark that the requirements of the people of St. Helena are similar to our requirements.  Here we have a British people—their only language is English—who have an attitude to life similar in general to ours and their demands are similar to our demands.  How can Her Majesty's Government or the St. Helena Government justify this gross neglect of their own employees?  In simple terms it means that the ordinary people of St. Helena—by that I mean about 95 per cent of the population—do not know what it is from one year's end to another to eat meat, butter, eggs and cheese or to have milk.  None of the basic requirements of life is available to them, and that is a shame and disgrace.  Why are these facts not given in the official Report published by the Colonial Office about this island so that the House and the people of this country may know the true position there?

Rock Rose Flax Mill, May 2010


The Under-Secretary of State for the Colonies, Mr. Julian Amery replied:


Since the turn of the last century our problem has been how to put the economy of the island and of its nearly 5,000 people on to a new foundation.  As the hon. Member said, St. Helena has few resources for which there is any world demand.  One crop alone, phormium tenax, a flax indigenous to New Zealand, has proved itself as a serious export.  But the world market for this and similar fibres is, and has for some time been, seriously depressed. The industry which until recently employed 200 people is at present employing only 120.  The Hon. Member spoke of the fear of unemployment and of the grievance felt by some working in the flax industry at the level of their wages.  I understand that; but there is always a danger that any further depression in prices or any rise in production costs would lead to the flax mills closing down completely.  This would cause very serious hardship to the island, and more especially to the employees and their families in the industry.

This in fact is precisely what happened.  Flax mills continued to operate intermittently until the entire industry ended in 1966 when the last Mill on the island closed.

Woody Ridge Flax Mill, May 2010

Broadbottom Flax Mill, May 2010

The commonly held belief is that the demise of the industry was precipitated when an official in the British Post Office, which was a major buyer, decided to use synthetic string thus killing off St. Helena’s flax industry and even with government subsidies, St Helena flax could not compete in the world market.

A more plausible explanation is that this outcome was exactly as was foreseen.  In the mid-1960s some of the flax mills were government-owned and others were private and in 1965, after a government review of wages, a decision was made to nearly double the wages in the government mills.  Wages were felt to be too low for workers to live on adequately.  The private mills were not able to match these wage increases and closed.  Meanwhile, world prices for hemp continued to fall, so the higher production costs of the government-owned mills meant that they were operating at a large loss and within a few months they too closed.


The Endeavour Voyage of Sir Joseph Banks:
The discovery of Flax on Norfolk Island:
Benjamin Grant:
Parliamentary Debate on St. Helena:
Interview with Mr. Fulton:



Sunday, 12 June 2011

Wilberforce James Arnold

Jamestown, Grand Parade, Dr. Arnold Memorial, April 2010

Text from Trevor Hearl’s narrative on the St. Helena 2002 80p stamp commemorating Dr. Arnold (1867-1925).

Wilberforce John James Arnold is commemorated on the obelisk in the Grand Parade, Jamestown, as "the greatest friend St Helena ever had”.  This is no exaggeration when it is considered that, over a period of twenty years, he carried the responsibilities of physician, surgeon, dentist, health officer, Justice of Peace, Member of Council and, on three occasions, Acting Governor.  Arnold was born in Belfast where he received his medical training at Queen's College, and began his career in 1895 as a surgeon at Aberdare, among the coal mines of South Wales.

In 1900 the Anglo-Boer War brought him to St Helena with the Volunteer Medical Staff Corps, to attend the troops and the Boer prisoners' hospital in Jamestown.  In 1903 he was appointed Colonial Surgeon and Health Officer, becoming so devoted to the work that, despite the low salary (£200-£300 p.a. 'plus horse allowance'), pressure of work, usually as the only doctor, and his own indifferent health, he spent most of his life in the Island's service.  Arnold, who was a Fellow of the Royal Geographic Society, left St. Helena but twice to study ways of meeting the island’s particular medical problems.  During the First World War (1914-18) he served in the Royal Army Medical Corps on hospital ships and in Palestine, reaching the rank of Major, returning to St Helena in 1920 “to cheers from the crowds” at the Wharf.

Dr. Arnold Memorial, Inscription, April 2010

It was not only his diligence and willingness to serve the Island in so many roles that earned him the love and respect of all classes, but his caring manner and the missionary zeal which imbued all his work, derived from his Presbyterian background.  He never stinted in his labours, visiting the sick and elderly, supporting charities from his meagre funds, paying fees rather than accept them from the poor, while living frugally as a bachelor, latterly at Maldivia by courtesy of the owner.  His work in preventive medicine, instilling basic rules of diet, hygiene and public health, are said to have cut the death rate by two-thirds - from 17.3 to 6.4 per thousand - within ten years (1899-1909).  In November 1924 Dr Arnold's life was saved by an emergency operation performed by a visiting naval surgeon.  Though far from well he resumed his duties, not only as the lone medical Officer, but as Acting Chief Justice and Acting Governor, and it was while attending a ceremony at Longwood in this capacity that he collapsed and died on 27 January 1925. He was 57 and it is said that half the population flocked to his funeral.

There are articles about Dr. Arnold in Wirebird, Spring 1991 and Wirebird, Autumn 1995.



Wednesday, 8 June 2011

The Market and Bridge Clock

Jamestown, The Market, May 2010
The Market building was prefabricated in England in 1865 by Gwynne and Co. Engineers of Essex Street Works, London. Cast-iron construction was chosen to resist termite attack from which Jamestown had suffered much in the preceding years. Believed refurbished in 1990.

 Jamestown, The Market, Detail, May 2010

The adjacent concrete Clock Tower, erected in memory of those who fell in The Great War 1914-1918, was designed by a British Resident Engineer, Captain Mainwaring, and funded from money raised from the public through a charitable committee consisting of Mr. John Thorpe, Mr. Charles Jameson and Mr. Edward Constantine, who had some £30 surplus after the placing of the Island Memorial Cenotaph. The decision was taken to use this surplus to erect a memorial clock whose time, by law, should be the official time of the colony. The Government voted £30 and public subscription produced some £80.

Jamestown, The Bridge Clock, Memorial Plaque, May 2010

Sunday, 29 May 2011

The Ladder

Recent membership of the Friends of St Helena (http://www.fosh.org.uk/index.php?id=1 ) has given me access to back numbers of the society’s magazine “Wirebird”.  I was intrigued by the map-view below in the Autumn 1992 edition of a “Prospect of James Fort on the island of St Hellena by J. Thornton” published around 1700 and which showed “the Ladder” in the top right-hand corner.
James Fort, John Thornton, Wirebird Autumn 1992
Today’s Ladder with its 699 steps is a much later (1829) structure so what was this earlier ladder?  The New York Public Library Digital Gallery provided another image but by S. Thornton.
A Prospect of James Fort on the Island of St. Hellena. London, Samuel Thornton, c. 1711. A view of the East India Company's fort on St Helena, the important stop on the route to the East Indies.  Shown are the triangular fort, the crane used for unloading supplies and the Governor's garden. Published in Thornton's 'English Pilot.
Samuel Thornton, the Ladder, Detail

According to Jonathan Potter, the London map dealer, Samuel Thornton was the son and heir of the English chart-maker John Thornton who was the pre-eminent English mapmaker of the later part of the seventeenth century and first decade of the eighteenth.  After his death in 1708, Samuel Thornton continued to re-issue his father’s charts, often with his imprint substituted.  However, according to the late RV Tooley (and Richard Betz) John and Samuel Thornton were brothers.  John, the elder, being for a time Hydrographer to the East India Company between 1669 and 1701 and also collaborated with the publisher John Seller.  John died around 1706 and was succeeded by Samuel who died around 1715. 

Janisch, helpful as ever, gives several references to Ladder Hill:
March 16th 1736.  The Governor reports in the last two weeks we had such great cataracts of water fallen from the Skies that it hath drove away great part of "Cow Path." On Ladder Hill there was such breaches as was never observed before. In some places great heaps of Rubbish drove down. In other places many large Rocks removed—large pieces of the Wall thrown down so that it is very difficult to go up or down by those who carried loads.
Oct. 7 1771.  Road to Ladder Hill to be altered, Inhabitants paying half. Ladder Hill Road is the only Road kept in repair by the Company.

July 7.1795.  Henry Powell publican unfortunately killed in bed by the falling of a rock from the height of Ladder Hill yesterday morning at 4 o'clock.
Oct. 23, 1809.  Many of the Lanes directed to be kept open for the purpose of carrying off water falling from the side of Ladder Hill are stopped. Deep channels had been cut on the side of the Hill to carry off all the water into the Burial Ground by the Barracks. The ground is in a shameful neglected state having more the appearance of a common for Dogs than a burial place for deceased Christians.


Ladder Hill, Fort and Telegraph, Read 1817

Hawkesworth in his narrative of Cook’s first visit to St. Helena in May 1771 provides some explanation: They (the inhabitants) are used also to climb the steep hill between the town in Chapel-valley and their plantation; Which hill is so steep, that, having a ladder in the middle of it they call it Ladder Hill; and this cannot be avoided without going three or four miles about; so that they seldom want air or exercise, the great preservers of health.

Janisch then records that:
Sept. 1.1828—With the view of saving the heavy labour and expense of carriage along the zigzag between Jamestown and Ladder Hill the Governor (Dallas) proposed the construction of an Inclined Plane upon the principle of several which have been beneficially adopted at Bridgenorth and Monmouth of 45° of Elevation, 3° more than Ladder Hill and many other parts of England and Wales.

It was subsequently built in 1829 by the St. Helena Railway company with Janisch recording on 14th January 1829 that “Ladder to Ladder Hill £200 allowed in aid of the work”

The Inclined Plane, 1829
The Mechanics’ Magazine of March 1834 gave a description of the system, its defects and the efforts made to make it safe.



Writing in 1875 JC Melliss described the Inclined Planes’ purpose, construction and eventual dereliction:

The whole of the manure, which accumulates from stables, stockyards, etc., in the town, is thrown into the sea, instead of being conveyed up the hills, and returned to the land.  By this long-continued practice the lands have become almost exhausted.  Moreover, a large quantity of guano, collected around the coast, is exported to Europe, instead of being used in the Island, and it is much to be regretted that the Government permit it, merely for the sake of swelling the revenue by a paltry charge of 10s. per ton exportation fee.  With such a system continually at work, is it surprising that the farmer obtains but a poor crop, and fruit trees blight and dwindle away? rather is it a matter of astonishment that he obtains any return at all.  Forty two years ago General Dallas, then Governor of the Island, was fully alive to this most ruinous system, and, with a view of supplying some practical means for lessening the cost of conveying the manure from the town up the hills, and back to the lands in the country, caused the erection of the ladder or inclined plane.  This engineering work, carried out under the directions of Lieutenant G. W. Melliss, an artillery officer, comprised a ladder 900 feet in length, with upwards of 600 steps, communicating up the side of the hill from Jamestown to Ladder Hill, at an angle of 39' or 40', with a tramway on either side, upon which waggons, in connexion with ropes and machinery at the top, travelled up and down.  By this means manure was conveyed up an almost perpendicular height of 600 feet and deposited, from whence it could easily be conveyed by the farmers.  A secondary use of this "St. Helena Railroad" was to convey stores from the town to the garrison stationed in the Fort of Ladder Hill, and, as it would be most invaluable for both these purposes in the present day, it is very greatly to be regretted that the whole construction has fallen into disuse and bad repair, the woodwork being eaten by white ants. Indeed, it is said that these insects visited Ladder Hill through the medium of its longitudinal wooden sleepers.

Fowler 1863, Jamestown showing the Inclined Plane and Ladder Hill

In November 1832 The Inclined Plane was bought from the St Helena Railway Co. by the East India Co. for £882.10s.

A description of ascending the ladder, by then in a poor state of repair, was given in "Reminiscences of a Nine Years’ Traveller" from The Church of England Magazine. May 2nd 1846. (With maybe just a touch of exaggeration in recalling the difficulty of the ascent and the death toll)

The Longest Ladder in the World.
On approaching the roads off James Town, in the island of St. Helena, your attention is attracted by an enormous ladder, that extends from the town beneath to a fort directly over the town, on the summit of a hill, 800 feet high. Previous to visiting St. Helena, I had heard much of this immense ladder; and, when at length I found myself on the spot, I resolved to ascend it.  On inquiry, I found that sentinels were placed both below and above, for the purpose of preventing any one ascending or descending without an order from the town-major.  This regulation was adopted in consequence of the number of accidents, attended with fatal consequences, that had occurred. Together with a companion, after dinner, I rambled down towards the guard-house; and, having found the town-major there, we applied, and obtained an order to permit our ascent.  The ladder is composed of steps, bettor than three feet in width, and some four inches in breadth, firmly fastened in sides of great strength.  'On either side is a hand-rail, of such a width that you can conveniently lay a hand on either side.
The steps are each upwards of eighteen inches apart, and great numbers of them much decayed.  At regular distances there are small seats for resting-places fixed. On one side, without the ladder, a description of slide has been formed, along which pulleys are fixed; for the purpose, it would seem, of raising anything from the town beneath, or lowering such from the fort above.  The face of the hill against which the ladder is erected is extremely steep; so much so, as utterly to preclude the idea of any ascent without artificial means.  In places there are perfect precipices, the rocks completely overhanging.  At the bottom we found no sentry, and so proceeded to ascend at once, but had not attained above the height of a hundred feet, when we heard a voice hailing us, and perceived a sentry calling on us to return, who in his walk had been concealed from us, when below, by an intervening projection.  Down we had to go, and, having shown our pass, and satisfied the Cerberus, commenced our ascent again.  At first we proceeded rapidly, but soon found that not the answer; the height of each step causing considerable exertion.  More slowly then we moved along, till we attained the third resting place, where we seated ourselves, and turned to view the town beneath, with its narrow streets and confined situation, cowering, as it were, beneath the two mighty hills that seemed to press it on either side.  Aloft we turned our eyes, anxiously wishing ourselves at the top; but we had the best part of the ascent yet to accomplish, and to our task we once more went.  As we attained a greater height, we found the steps getting more and more out of repair, in some places two or three steps together being broken; so that we had to clamber up the best way we could.  On, on we went, with alternate rests: the town, the bay, and shipping beneath, gradually became more minute the moving bodies seemed almost mites.  When we had reached within a hundred feet or so of the top, the unusual fatigue almost overpowered us: the dizzy height so affected us, that we felt as if we could scarce preserve ourselves from falling; yet we persevered, and did succeed in reaching the top.  A moment later, and one human being would have passed into another world.  My companion, who was before me, had scarce passed the gate at the top, when he fainted, completely overcome; and he afterwards declared to me that, for the last hundred feet or so, nothing prevented his physical energies from being overcome by the unusual fatigue and the position he was in, but the immediate prospect of reaching a place of safety.  I was not similarly overcome; but I was little better a sickening sensation oppressed me; and, a few moments after attaining the fort, I retched very violently.  Many lives have been lost on this ladder, particularly those of passengers, whom curiosity induced to attempt the ascent.  The artillerymen and garrison of the fort are not, however, used to going up and down, except from casualties; and it was only the very week before my visit to St. Helena that an artilleryman was killed in attempting to descend the ladder against time, for a wager.  Ladder Hill Fort completely hangs over the bay: it is of great strength, and completely commands the roadstead beneath.  After passing an hour at the fort, we descended; but by the road, which is cut in a zigzag manner in the side of the hill

Having fallen into disuse it was dismantled by the Royal Engineers in 1871 leaving the 699 steps to give us the structure we see today.

Jacob's Ladder circa 1900

The Inclined Plane, Plaque, May 2010

Jacob's Ladder, Sepia Postcard, Purchased Jamestown 1949,  Llangibby Castle en-route to England

The Inclined Plane, 1979
Jacob's Ladder, May 2010